Pino Freewheel

The Pino stoker’s freewheel removal

Our Pino is a 2011 model with square taper cranks.

The freewheel is on the left side of the ‘Captains’ crankset. Ignore the motor slung under our Pino, removal of the cranks and freewheel is still the same. Before removing the crank, take off the pedal.

Removal of the cranks is similar to the video below (not mine). You’ll need a crank puller – the video below shows the tools and how to use them to remove the crank.

Once removed the inside of the crank and freewheel looks like this.

It’s best to remove the chainring at this stage by undoing all five chainring bolts. The chainring will then come away from the crank assembly and it’ll look like this.

Image Bob Gulliver

To you’ll need Park Tool FR-6 – available through bike shops, Amazon and eBay – and a clamp to hold it in place before placing the crank in a vice. You can make up a clamp using a long bolt, washers and a nut. It just needs to be finger tight to prevent the tool slipping out of the cut-outs on the freewheel.
Rotates anti-clockwise to loosen.

Park tool FR-6
My clamp for holding the tool in place on the crank.

Placing the tool into the crank using the clamp to hold it in place…

Use a spanner to turn the tool anti-clockwise. You may need to use an extension for leverage. Once loose the freewheel should spin off easily…
Once the freewheel is loosened just continue to rotate the spider anti-clockwise while holding the crank.

You can now undo the five allen bolts and remove the spider from the freewheel. The image below shows two freewheels. The top one has the threaded sleeve that has come off the crank. If the sleeve stays on the crank, it will look like the bottom one.

The freewheel can be dismantled to grease the bearing by turning the cover plate anti-clockwise.

The stock freewheel has three pawls. Use a light grease to ensure the pawls can move freely and engage properly. Because of this, take-up is often a little slack. This, and that the Hase Freewheels are expensive led me to look at an alternative using a better quality freewheel. Unfortunately, I could not find any good quality flanged freewheels on the internet, so I decided to use a sprocketed freewheel and make an adapter plate to attach it to the spider and crank.

I wanted to use an 18T BMX freewheel sprocket – the Halo Clickster – as it has six pawls and is a better quality freewheel.

I could use bolts evenly spaced in the saddles of the sprocket to hold the freewheel in place and prevent any rotation.
I drew out an adapter and had one made at a local engineering firm. One of the guys turned it around very quickly and it cost me £15.
The finished adapter with the freewheel and chainring in place. The freewheel here is a cheap one I used before committing to buying the more expensive ‘Clickster’. I have this as a spare.
The adapter and freewheel back on the bike. This is a big improvement over the original freewheel. With six pawls and more bearings the take-up is very quick.