To Germany, July/August 2022

The International Tandem Rally, Tecklenburg, Germany

The rally was held in a campsite near the hilltop village of Tecklenburg, Germany – only a dozen or so miles from Osnabrück in Northern Germany. We decided we would ride to the Rally – after two year’s of restricted travel we were keen to tour again. Rather than leave the car at Harwich which we’ve done before, we planned to ride from home and collect a handful of BCQs (British Cycle Quest) along the way out and back. An overnight ferry would take us to the Hook of Holland and five days later we would reach the campsite where we had a small chalet booked.

Day 1 Home to Lewknor.

Day 1 – 35 miles
Only a few miles after setting off, we passed Douai Abbey and the old school there (now apartments) – time for a shot and some passing cyclists were good enough to offer to be photographer.
The café I had in mind for a pit-stop in Pangbourne was now in Turkish hands, so baclava and Turkish coffee was the order. It was good too and provided plenty of sugar for the rest of the day.
Our route took us through Woodcote, above the Thames Valley, then we headed for Ewelme. Views back across the fields showed how dry everything was after the heatwave. We were relieved that our first day marked a change in the weather with lower temps, but as we rode across Buckinghamshire, Bedfordshire, Hertfordshire and Essex, the temperatures ramped up again.

Day 2 Lewknor to Aspley Guise (Milton Keynes).

Day 2 – 38 miles (73)
After a night in a hotel at Lewknor we continued tracking the edge of the Chilterns. Mentmore, Buckinhamshire.
We skirted Leighton Buzzard to the west, crossing the Grand Union Canal and River Ouzel at Three Locks where we stopped for a drink. I managed to get stung on the cheek by a wasp but it wasn’t bad. After this we had a pretty long climb up to the Brickhills and Aspley Heath.
Near Great Brickhill, checking out the view over Buckinghamshire. In the evening an old friend who lives in Milton Keynes came out to the hotel for a drink and catchup.

Day 3 Aspley Guise to Little Wymondley (Hitchin).

Day 3 – 30 miles (103) That steep climb just under halfway is the Sharpenhoe Clappers. BCQs are often placed at the top of the biggest lump in the area!
Shortly after we set off we collected a BCQ at Woburn then headed East across the park, past herds of deer.
In Woburn Park.
Our next ‘challenge’ was to climb the Sharpenhoe Clappers for another BCQ.
Once again there were some great views across the countryside.
We arrived too early to check in to our hotel, so went to the village churchyard of Great Wymondley where there was a Motte and Bailey. Karon went off to check it out while I stayed with the bike and got chatting to a local lady who had come to do chores in the church.

Day 4 Little Wymondley to Thaxted.

Day 4 – 40 miles (143)
Distracted by a cycle group that had just passed us, I missed a turn, but soon realised. It resulted in a sharp dog-leg but didn’t add too much to the mileage. The days were starting to get very warm again, despite some cloud cover.
Lunchstop at Manuden. The sun was so warm I covered the smaller battery (on the frame) to shade it from the worst of the heat. The larger battery was inside the rear rack, so was shielded from the sun by the luggage.
Hot, dry fields and very little in the way of shade. In places the tarmac was melting, soft and sticky.
Approaching Thaxted. We enjoyed our stay in a pub here. Went for an evening walk around the town and windmill. Back at the pub, before dinner, we met some local ‘old boys’ and sat chatting with them over a pint.
Thaxted Mill, under the flight path to Stanstead.

Day 5 Thaxted to Stoke By Nayland.

Day 5 – 30 miles (173)
Shortly after leaving Thaxted we passed another mill – Gibraltar Mill at Great Bardfield.
On the way to another BCQ at Castle Hedingham. We found it reasonably easily and then doubled back a little into the village as we’d spotted a busy cafe. We were lucky to grab a table inside, out of the heat, as the cafe seemed to be catering for a post wedding party breakfast.
Our B&B was a lovely old farmhouse, off the beaten track. Before we reached it, down a very narrow and overgrown lane, I was beginning to think we were off-track, but it was just very isolated. Nice and quiet, but it did mean having to get on the bike for some evening food in the village a short ride away.
Our very comfy and quiet room. The bike spent the night in the garage, next to a couple of old lawn mowers and an old kitchen sink!

Day 6 Stoke by Nayland to Harwich.

Day 6 – 28 miles (201) – I had guessed at 200, so not bad.
Since passing through Bures the day before, we had been following the river Stour – we were into ‘Constable Country’. We needed to stay north of the river, to collect the BCQ at Flatford Mill, subject of his ‘Hay Wain’ masterpiece.
Karon at Flatford Mill. The way down to the river was one-way, which explains the little triangle we completed on the route trace to get in and out. Our ferry wasn’t until late, so we had time for a walk and coffee and cake in the cNational Trust cafe nearby.
Early at Harwich, we spent much of the afternoon in a Bernie Inn about a mile from the port. Later we made our way to check in, still with plenty of time to spare, and found we weren’t the only cyclists.
Arrival at the Hook of Holland, and ready for the next part of our adventure.

Next part – across the Netherlands