TandemTreffen 2025

TT25 was to be held at Malente, in northern Germany between Lubeck and Kiel. Quite a distance but early in the year, I asked Karon whether she wanted to cycle to it. She was pretty positive about it – we had the time and she enjoys travel, even sat on the Pino.

So I set about route planning and booking accommodation. We’d tried cycle touring with a tent, through France in 2019 and it didn’t really work for us. Yes, it’s a cheaper alternative to B&Bs and hotels, but having the extra baggage and having to pitch/pack away every day it a pain. Camping from a fixed base, turning up in the car with all you need for comfort is fine, but we are both too long in the tooth now for extended camping trips.

I used ‘Booking.com’, Google Maps and Excel to to plot a route that would take us to the north of London, then on to Harwich and then from the Hook of Holland to Malente. I aimed for 40 miles a day where possible. Of course, some days were less (making Karon happy) and some days were more (making Karon grumpy). She says 35 is her optimum, but that would add another 5 days to the month we would be away.

I put the four final routes into RideWith GPS – UK outward, return & EU outward, return. Each day we could just pick up navigation where we left off. I printed out the route sheets, as below, as a back-up.

My spreadsheet for the Netherlands and Germany outward legs. The final version varied a little. The numbers system the Netherlands uses for cycle paths/routes is really useful and thats what the beige column contains, with distances in between them in blue and a running total in green. Without the number system in Germany, I listed places we needed to pass through or close by.

With Karon’s extra needs for baggage space for her medications and kit, I decided early on to use our Bob Yak trailer.

The loaded Pino at Marlow – while we stopped for a lunchtime drink. Later, after spoke breakages, I moved the rack-bag onto the trailer to try and reduce weight directly over the rear wheel. It worked to a degree, but we still suffered several broken spokes throughout the trip.

Day 01 – Home to Chalfont St. Giles. https://www.strava.com/activities/14468016966

Made good time into Reading and the cycle paths helped avoid most of the traffic queues. Coffee in Caversham. Henley was the usual jam but once through, the road to Marlow was ok. Detoured up the High Street and found a cold beer/Aperol. Two women came up to Karon while I was inside getting the drinks and said “You’ve made good time from Tadley!” They’d passed us as we left Tadley. Missed a turn leaving Marlow…. I only had one beer!… which resulted in a scenic tour of some upmarket neighbourhood. Narrow lane and steep climb turned out to be a rat-run and we were against the flow. Difficult to get started again so Kaz walked and I pushed with some e-assist. A few impatient overtakes resulted in horns and heavy braking from oncoming cars. Shower, change then some food!

Day 02 – Chalfont St. Giles to Hertingfordbury. https://www.strava.com/activities/14477688821

If anyone finds a pair of Pringle socks near the White Hart in Chalfont, they’re mine. Put them on the back of the bike to dry after rinsing them last night but forgot to tie them down!

Several climbs this morning with one push – Karon stayed seated and pedalled while I pushed, steadied the bike and applied throttle as necessary. After coffee and cakes in Kings Langley we had a few more undulations then picked up the St. Albans Way along an old rail track then the Cole Green Way along another, so the second half of the ride was a welcome contrast to the ups and downs of the morning. Arrived at the pub B&B a bit early to check in so we are enjoying a rest with some ‘rehydration’ before unloading.

On the St.Alban’s Way.

Day 03 – Hertingfordbury to Braintree. https://www.strava.com/activities/14489310190

Had a pleasant stay at the White Horse in Hertingfordbury and set off this morning under grey skies and with a cold wind. Back onto the Cole Green Way into Hertford then followed NCR 61 alongside the river Lee to Ware. Quietish roads and a stop so Karon could put some warmer gear on. Tea and cake in Bishops Stortford, then some off-road to get over the M11 and A120. In the end we decided to check out the Flitch Way which, due to the dry spring was ok. A few gates could be either side-stepped or opened. Came off at Great Dunnow then back onto a fast road for Braintree. Tried the roadside path to start with as it was pretty busy with the odd racing numpties but the overgrowth eventually pushed us onto the road. Chevrons up the middle meant the fast passes were thankfully wide. Into Braintree where we joined queuing traffic for the last stop/start 3/4 mile. The bike and trailer are a bit too big to filter. Ferry at Harwich tomorrow night.

Next to the River Lee Navigation, between Hertford and Ware.

Day 04 – Braintree to Harwich. https://www.strava.com/activities/14499089247

‘Interesting’ start to the morning. Left Braintree to pick up some quiet back lanes but was forced into a detour with a closed road. After a dog-leg we were back on route but part of that was alongside the A12. The crossing point, which I thought would be an underpass, wasn’t… just run across two lanes of fast non-stop traffic, vault over the double central barrier, then sprint the other two lanes! Fortunately the cycle path continued so we ran alongside what was really a motorway until a better option presented itself. One busy roundabout and a footbridge later we were almost back on track but taking time out in an American style diner for a second breakfast on the eastern outskirts of Colchester.

A slight pause while I figure out a detour – a mile or two further on we could take a lane that would put us back on track.

Made it to Harwich! Only five hours to kill and we could check in. Still, that gave me time to replace the broken spoke on the rear wheel. That snapped when some bloke in a queue of traffic waiting at a roundabout didn’t see right in front of his bonnet the bloody great bike covered in bright yellow bags towing a trailer with a fluttery streamer blowing in the not so gentle breeze and tried to advance, pushing me and the bike before hearing several obscenities from me. He was very apologetic to Karon who was following me as we crossed the road, threading through the two lanes of (almost) stationary cars.

Day 05 – Hook of Holland to Schoonhoven. https://www.strava.com/activities/14509411886

That’s the outbound UK bit done. After killing some time in the Brewers Fayre and replacing the broken spoke we went to check in for the ferry at about 20:30. There was a bunch of ladies on bikes waiting too and it turned out, they were from Basingstoke… small world! Being on bikes we boarded first, which was good as it was cold! So, we were in our cabin by 21:00. Slept pretty well but I could feel the boat pitching a bit during the night. Woken by the tannoy at unearthly o’ clock! Tea for Kaz and coffee for me in the cabin before departure. Had to wait for breakfast until we got into Rotterdam and and detoured to find a cafe. Pancakes with banana and chocolate sauce and STRONG coffee. Navigation through Rotterdam wasn’t too bad and once clear of the city is very straightforward… keep the river to the right. Missed a turn a few miles from Schoonhoven, but it did turn up a restaurant so we parked up for some shared goodies and a welcome drink. That leaves just a few miles to our overnight stay in Schoonhoven.

That’s Rotterdam out of the way

Day 06 – Schoonhoven to Renkum. https://www.strava.com/activities/14521154623

Stayed at the Belvedere a couple of times before but it’s gradually moved upmarket, so dinner was a bit more expensive than we liked but the food was good, slept well too after the early start from the ferry. Not so windy today so the riding was easier. Karon’s blood sugar dropped fast which prompted a forced stop for a biscuit – her last, so we needed to find a supermarket for some more. Sunday morning, the Netherlands is closed, but by the time we reached Wijk bij Duurstede we found one open… no loo though so we found a small bar in the old part of town to kill two birds…

It was mostly dyke-top again today but nearing Arnhem and its suburbs we left the dykes and hit some high ground, passing the Grebbeberg cemetery which we’d visited on a previous ride past. Karon’s bloods took another dive which prompted a second stop at a hotel bar. Sweets and Bitterballen turned up really fast once the waitress knew of our problem, but the drinks took a lot, lot longer! They were busy as some cycle event was using the place as a finish/watering hole. Only another five miles to the hotel which is set back among the trees. Dinner booked for 19:30… time for a shower!

Fortunately the wind was behind us, so the elevated dyke-top road made for some good average speeds.

Day 07 – Renkum to Lochem. https://www.strava.com/activities/14529710815

Loading up the Pino drew some attention from some Dutch cyclists also getting ready to ride. They were having luggage transported for them. I think this is probably a wise choice as we had to stop again early in the day’s ride to replace broken spokes. We made use of a path-side bench so Karon could sit while I unloaded the bike, removed the rear wheel and set to work. Possibly just the combined weight of us and the luggage. At this rate I’ll need some more spares before the end of our adventure. Quite nice riding again today but the landscape has changed from riverside to shady avenues, heathland or woodland. Stopped at Eerbeek for some lunch and a break then it was easy going for the rest of the ride. Even passing through Zutphen was pretty straightforward. Another hotel in a woodland setting, but with the bonus of a balcony and lots of birdsong.

A trackside bench came in handy when I replaced broken spokes.

Day 08 – Lochem to Nordhorn. https://www.strava.com/activities/14539996432

First order of the day was to check all the spokes and tighten accordingly. That done we had also decided to put Karon’s rack bag onto the trailer to lighten the direct load onto the Pino back wheel. Second order was to find a good sized bike shop to buy some more spokes! After a hunt ‘out the back’ the mechanic found a box of the right size. That eased our peace of mind considerably. So it was around 11 by the time we got riding properly, with the first part a couple of long, straight stretches beside the main road. Once again we had to stop so Karon could have a biscuit to get her blood sugar back up. She wonders whether the extra exercise is kicking her pancreas to make a little insulin. Later we passed a small fast food place so stopped for second breakfast (at lunchtime). Our final stretch in the Netherlands was alongside a canal for miles then we parted company with it, crossed into Germany and into Nordhorn to find our hotel. Bike parked up in the garage, batteries on charge, showered and ‘stuff’ rinsed – yay for heated towel rails! Free beer in the bar later.

First part of the ride away from Lochem was a long straight stretch I remember coming this way on our return from the ITR at Tecklenburg.

Day 09 – Nordhorn to Cloppenburg. https://www.strava.com/activities/14551388037

The day dawned with slight headache for me. Could have been the multiple schnapps after our food last night. The pub and menu had a Bavarian theme and Karon chose the pigs knuckle, not realising just how big the meal was. She gave it her best. We skipped desert in favour of the Schnapps sampler then once we’d polished them off, when I paid the bill, the waitress gave us each another. Probably not the best preparation for our longest distance yet. If I had followed the scenic cycle routes it would have been further but I opted to stick to the cycle paths beside the main road with a few minor detours into towns along the way for coffee/cake. The only advantage to being metres away from the passing HGVs is the backdraft – good for another 2 or 3 mph. So no picturesque castles today. Tomorrow we should get to Bremen for a day off.

A day spent beside larger roads but not always busy.

Day 10 – Cloppenburg to Bremen. https://www.strava.com/activities/14561487669

Change of weather today. Cooler and heavy showers, one of which passed through just as we got ready to set off. Fortunately it didn’t last long. First stretch was more roadside cycle paths and there were some ‘rising flats’ as Chris Boardman would call them. By the time we reached Wildeshausen we were ready for a break and timed it right, as a squall passed through as we sat inside the bakery with coffee and cake. Later we enjoyed a handful of miles through a forest on gravel tracks. Back into civilisation and we got caught in a pretty violent squall… nearly had us off the bike. We took shelter in a bus stop til the worst was past. Then it was a flat-out race before the next squall arrived. On the outskirts of Bremen another threatened so we dived into a McDonalds for the loo and more coffee. Hotel is just outside the old town and has bike parking inside the foyer which is handy. Restaurant is closed though so we are off on foot to find some food.

Sunshine and some gravel between some pretty violent squalls.
The strong tail-wind was still helping us along the way, but also delivering showers – at least we could see them coming.

Day 11 – Bremen rest day.

It was a short walk into the old part of town.

Day 12 – Bremen to Zeven. https://www.strava.com/activities/14579988075

Short day today, so a leisurely breakfast and then loaded up the bike. I love it when hotels have luggage trollies… saves a few trips up and down stairs or in lifts.

Forecast was for rain later but it was blue skies and a gentle breeze as we got under way. Navigating in towns is always tricky, especially when trying to stick to the cycle lanes at multiple junctions. Luckily there was a cycle route along an old rail line that carried us through the suburbs and out into the countryside. Stopped at a supermarket for some milk and it had a cafe. I put some more air into the rear tyre while parked up. Hotel is nice but we’ve just realised the room is set up for single occupancy, so we’ll have to get another set of towels and bedding. Table booked for food tonight and the bar is open all afternoon 🙂

Longer day tomorrow as we head into Hamburg for a two night stay, then it’s not far to Malente… the little black scribble on the map.

Day 13 – Zeven to Hamburg. https://www.strava.com/activities/14591368466

Breakfast in the hotel was in an atrium and as we tucked in to our fruit & yoghurt rain started to drum on the roof. I managed to keep the bike under cover while loading it up, but inevitably, time came for us to venture out in it. Initially we passed through farmland on roadside cycle paths but some were so bumpy with tree roots pushing up the tarmac I resorted to the almost empty road.

Sugar/pee stop. We both were soaked to the skin by the time we reached Hamburg.

Nearing Hamburg the roads got busier and the fields disappeared, replaced by bricks and mortar. Stopped at a Burger King – more for the loo than the food but by the time we came out it had stopped raining, though both of us were soaked through. The route to the Elbe Tunnel was through some very industrial parts but the tunnel was great… free, the bike fitted inside the lifts easily and it delivered us into the heart of the city. As said before, it’s easy to miss a turn or end up on the wrong side of a busy junction but the bike lanes and crossings all help to make it safe. Nice to be upgraded and it wasn’t too difficult lumping all our baggage into the lift then to our room. It’s just absolutely tipped it down again… so glad we are inside!!!

The southern approaches to Hamburg are not the most picturesque.
The old Elbe tunnel brings you out right in the heart of the city.

Day 14 – Hamburg rest day.

Took a day off the bike and bought ‘day’ tickets for the transport system at 7€ each. So, a bus to the Town Hall and a wander along a street with all the big designer names… LV, Dior, Prada etc. Tea in a cafe here 7.5€!! So we went up a side street and found a place with more earthly prices. Another bus ride to recce a later venue… as we had tickets for Miniature Wunderland (MW) for 16:30. Took refuge from a thunderstorm in a cafe then decided to do the city bus tour as that would deliver us back at MW bang on 16:30. English commentary through earpods on the bus. With our tickets for MW we didn’t need to queue and went straight in. Very crowded!!! Still, we saw enough before sensory overload made us bale. Another bus to a beer hall for drinks and food. I tried a ‘Bavarian Pizza’ made on pretzel pastry… bit dry but tasty enough. Another bus back to the hotel, so our day tickets were worth it.

In between showers. Later, we avoided the rain sat in a café to wait it out then took a bus tour… one with a temporary roof.
Inside the miniature world in Hamburg. Sensory overload!

Day 14 – Hamburg to Bad Segeberg. https://www.strava.com/activities/14610468500

Our route out of Hamburg took us alongside the Aussenalster (lake) but we didn’t see much of it. Instead we were running alongside one of the main roads out of the city, so it was a bit stop/start with all the junctions. Once away from the centre and in to the suburbs, the road was less busy and the quality of the cycle paths improved.

Wet, wet wet. And beware of stags!

All morning it had tried to rain but never really got going until we spotted a bakery cafe at Kayhude. Once inside it came on heavy so we stretched our stay out a little until it started to clear. We also encountered a couple of ‘almost’ hills as we neared Bad Segeberg. Our hotel for the night is a Spa/wellbeing place beside the lake and the room is good with a balcony and pretty good view… we can watch the rain come and go!

The view from our balcony at Bad Segeberg.

Short ride tomorrow to get to Malente and the start of TandemTreffen 2025.

Day 15 – Bad Segeberg to Malente (almost). https://www.strava.com/activities/14620548473

When I looked out over the balcony at the lake, it was flat but being added to in large amounts – not a good start to the day. Grey skies continued as we ate breakfast but after looking at the rain-radar app on my phone, I knew if we stretched out our departure, we would get a clear spell. And that was the case, but it didn’t last. If I looked over my left shoulder I could see the squalls coming, then the increased wind would signal the imminent arrival of rain. The first hit while we were in sight of a bus stop. The second caught us out in the open, on a gravel cycle path but a line of trees was better than nothing. The third, but less insistent, was while we were passing through Eutin, and a bar/brasserie provided shelter, and a very tasty currywurst – best I’ve had in a lonhg time. It’s only a few miles to Malente which will make about 532 from home in 13 days of riding… an average of 40.75 miles a day – and I was aiming at 40 so not too bad.

Covered bus shelters proved their worth more than once. The downpours were not long but pretty heavy when they hit.
By the way, we passed through Berlin!
Waiting out the rain… it had almost stopped. We raced a squall we could see coming across the fields, and lost by a narrow margin, but it ket us from the worst.

Tandemtreffen 2025 – Malente

The end of the ‘Sports Hotel’ poked out over one of the pitches.
As well as folks staying in the hotel, several teams parked up with camper vans. The sports Hall at the back was comandeered as tandem bike park for the weekend.

TT25 Day 1 https://www.strava.com/activities/14631613265

Ride groups are split into ‘short’, ‘medium’ and ‘long’. The short routes suited our comfortable distance of between 35 and 45 miles, so that’s what we plumped for. There were another couple of British teams in our group too.

The first ride headed east before looping around to the north and back to Malente.

This shows the first day’s ride and gives a good idea of how close we were to Denmark, Sweden and the Baltic.
The Short group ride takes a brief break.
Labelled the Switzerland of the north, it may be hilly compared to the Netherlands and regions of Germany nearby, but the relatively gentle rolling hills madee for some good riding.
Group photo at the Bungsberg Tower.
We later stopped at a ‘Pick your own’ strawberry farm but it was way to busy so we used the loos and moved on.

After getting back to the Sports Hall the bikes were parked up and we all met later (after showers/change etc.) to socialise before dinner. After dinner the usual form took place where we were briefed about the following day’s rides then a presentation from one or two teams about a tour they had made, or a big ride they had been on.

TT25 day 2 https://www.strava.com/activities/14642176351

Setting off to the north, we skirted two of the larger lakes in a figure 8, stopping at an old lake-side church – St.Peters, a romanesque church dating back to the C12th, a garden centre for tea/coffee/cake and Plön town centre for some refreshments (alcohol).

I can think of worse places to be laid to rest.
Through the Nehmtener forest
Café im Grünen, Dersau.
More woods near Ascheberg
Langenrader Windmühle near Ascheberg
Approaching Plön

In the evening, I gave a photo presentation about the Tandem Club’s International Rallies we have attended over the years and one of the Dutch members gave details about this year’s ITR in August at Barchem, near Lochem in the Netherlands.

TT25 Day 3 https://www.strava.com/activities/14652527751

To the Baltic coast. Slightly earlier start so we could get all the Pinos together for a group photo. The ‘short’ ride was 40 miles and the group had to be split into two as it had grown overnight. Our first stop was into the forest to visit an old oak tree with its own address. There’s a little hollow into which postie places cards and letters. Evidently singles sometimes use it to advertise their availability. No cafe stops as such today but once we hit the coast at Scharbeutz, we had an hour to find food and drinks… we didn’t need telling twice. Another stop was at the Schloss Eutin but Karon and I and another team left ahead of the group to find a supermarket in Malente for snacks to have as we head for Kellinghusen in the morning and it’s Sunday tomorrow – a lot of places will be closed.

Pino teams at TT25.
Jane acts as ‘Postie’ while John records the event.
An explanation, and the Oak’s address.
Easy riding
Scharbeutz on the Baltic coast.
Schloss Eutin
Schloss Eutin
Schloss Eutin – note the sky.
TT25 Teams

TT25 Day 19 – Malente to Kellinghusen. https://www.strava.com/activities/14666213340

49 miles and counting…

Retrieved the Pino and trailer from the bike garage and parked it just by the hotel entrance to load up, but while I was inside it rained and soaked Karon’s seat, so she had a wet bum all day. By the time we set off it had stopped but was still dripping off the trees. I found it too warm and humid for a waterproof. First part of the ride was to Plön alongside the main road. We then followed it to Neumünster. The roadside cycle paths varied from good to non existent – which meant a couple of miles on the busy road.

Around 12:15 Karon was ready for some food so we stopped at a bus stop to eat what we’d bought at the supermarket after yesterday’s ride. As we did, the clouds rolled in and it attempted to rain again, prompting us to don waterproofs again, but by the time we set off thecsun was out…. It was like one of Josie Dew’s rides – it could have been her around the coast of Britain, where she was forever stopping to put WPs on then a few minutes later stopping again to take them off! At Neumünster we spotted a cafe so stopped there – more for the loo than the coffee! The afternoon was the exact opposite of the morning, with rural lanes through farming communities and even stretches through woods and across fields that were tracks with two strips of concrete. As we reached the outskirts of Kellinghusen the route was up a hill, off the main road, but the sign said straight on 3km. So Bob decided to ignore RideWithGPS and trust his gut to follow the road. Once in the town I realised our hotel was up the hill after all, so rather than cut back, I decided to follow Google’s suggested route. Big mistake! We ended up manhandling the bike and trailer through pinch points and up a woodland track. It meant pushing the bike while holding the ‘walk’ assist. To top it off, our hotel (gulag) restaurant is closed and there’s no staff at weekends!, so after dumping the bags in cell number 110 we left the trailer and rode back down the hill (along the main road – not through the wooded tracks!) into the town for food at the recommended Greek Restaurant. So, we are not quite done with the miles as we still have the climb back to the gulag.

WPs on, WPs off –
Not the best of roadside cycle paths
Lunch stop.
Not as fast as some cycle paths but being away from the traffic for a while made a pleasant change.
On the approaches to Kellinghusen I got it wrong – Karon was not impressed!

TT25 Day 20 – Kellinghusen to Hemmoor. https://www.strava.com/activities/14672497780

Breakfast in the gulag was only til 9 where we discovered another two couples – we were not alone after all. We got away pretty early as a result… back from breakfast and the cleaners were already hard at work. Trollies with sheets and towels etc. stood by our door and the cleaner was nearby, ready to pounce as soon as we trundled off with all the bags for the bike.

Up on a low dyke with wetlands to the left.

Leaving Kellinghusen, we also left the hills behind, following quiet roads. At Lagerdorf we left the road for a narrow path that passed through an old disused industrial complex then a huge quarry. It was obvious we were in dairy country with cattle in a lot of the fields and big old farm houses that incorporated barns/milking sheds. Most seemed to have been built around the turn of the century to the 1930s.

Our room for the night is just that, so we stopped in Krempe to buy some food for the evening and breakfast tomorrow. Massive queue of traffic for the Elbe ferry which we sailed past and boarded first. Halfway across we could see a curtain of rain racing towards us and for the rest of the crossing we stood in a cold shower. Soaked to the skin and off the ferry we decided to dry out and drip all over the floor in a little cafe/diner by the terminal. An hour or so later and feeling less bedraggled we carried on for Hemmoor and our room. Luckily the place has a drying room and there’s a heated towel rail in the bathroom which is now festooned with various articles of cycle gear. Tomorrow the target is Bremerhaven for a morning ferry the following day. Let’s hope it’s a dry crossing this time.

The huge quarry. If you look carefully, there’s a blue excavator and some trucks/dozers near the centre of the pic.
The route to the Elbe took us away from the main road and across some farmland, cutting out a long dog-leg.
All smiles before the drenching!
The queues for the ferry each way were very long and the wait must have been hours. Fortunately any cyclists and foot passengers get on first, along the sides, so we didn’t have to wait long.

TT25 Day 21 – Hemmoor to Bremerhaven. https://www.strava.com/activities/14681982587

How nice to open the door to blue skies and sunshine after yesterday’s soaking. Our digs seemed to be popular with scuba divers and motorcyclists, well that’s what the gear in the drying room showed – not that I’m complaining as it provided the opportunity to dry out our supposedly waterproof Arkle bags and various bits of kit. The heated towel rail was working overtime too. Having had a ‘proper’ lunch yesterday we had enough snacks etc. to stay in rather than get back on the bike for an evening meal.

Sunshine and blue skies but the wind was pretty stiff and not always friendly.

Breakfast was some more from our mobile pantry then we loaded up and set off into a day that had it all as far as surfaces go, from the usual roadside paths to none along a relatively quiet main road to gravel and a woodland track. At Lintig we spotted a bakery so stopped for second breakfast. You remember those lovely tail winds on our outward legs? Now they are cross winds at best and smack head-on at worst… still better than rain though. Arrived in Bremerhaven early so we are sat nearby our hotel for the night enjoying a drink and light lunch then went to check in. Bike was inside a shuttered courtyard under a roof but it meant lumping the bags up stairs to our room. Fortunately the hotel had an attached restaurant so I pre-booked to make sure we had a good evening meal tehn we went for a brief wander around the little square our digs were just off.

No path but the road was very quiet and of course, all the drivers are most considerate.
Gravel leading to a path through woods.
Said path through woods. This part had been made up with fine stone but further on it was natural. I imagine some parts are very bad in winter.

TT25 Day 22 – Bremerhaven to Friedeburg. https://www.strava.com/activities/14693932950

Did you know that gulls prefer potato chips (fries) to sweet potato ones? Karon discovered this amazing fact as we sat and enjoyed lunch in Bremerhaven yesterday, having arrived early. The gull was feasting at a nearby table that had been left unattended.

Caught the 10:00 ferry across the Weser, which was just a few minutes from our hotel. Some 50 years ago I had driven across the Weser over a floating pontoon bridge, at night, with no lights. Today’s crossing was a lot less stressfull.

In contrast to the Elbe, the Weser crossing was not busy.
Goodbye Bremerhaven.

Once across the Weser and away from the rather industrial surrounds we were out into open country following quiet rural roads for much of the morning. The roads may have been quiet but I had to turn my hearing aids down to reduce the noise of the wind. Had to bump up the power level on the motor too, to keep a reasonable pace. By midday we had reached the coast, and a big dyke seemed to funnel the wind, making it even worse!

Flat lands, high winds and threatening clouds.

Coffee and apple cake after which I climbed the dyke to take a look at the sea, but was rather disappointed to find a huge expanse of mud… I guess the tide was out. A little later after setting off, it started to rain and there was no shelter to be had. It lasted about an hour and a half and for much of the time we were running beside a busy road with numerous HGVs all detirmined to cover us in spray… at least the backdraft gave us a second or two respite from the wind. I had aimed to arrive at our digs for 15:00 which is usually the check-in time for most places on Booking.com and I timed it to perfection, only to find at this particular place it’s 17:00! So I’m writing this sat inside a nearby schnell imbiss as our arrival coincided with more rain. Looking at the coming week, a daily soaking seems to be on the cards.

From the top of the dyke which seemed to be channeling the wind making for a really strong headwind we had to battle into. As we turned away from the dyke, towards Varel, it rained pretty heavily and what cover there was, was on the wrong side of the incoming weather.

TT 25 Day 23 – Friedeburg to Bad Nieuweschans (The Netherlands). https://www.strava.com/activities/14704450862

Enjoyed our stay in a rather quirky ’Landhaus’. More a B&B than a hotel but the host was also a chef and we had pre-ordered dinner. There was a large group of German cyclists staying so the Pino had to rest up in the garden. It was trying to rain as we loaded up but didn’t really amount to much. At one point I did put WPs on. Karon is togged up in full wet weather gear most of the time as she hates getting wet then cold.

Riding the road margin.
More gravel. Generally the surfaces are good and you can keep up a reasonable speed, but obviously slower than tarmac.

First 16 miles was roadside… much without a cycle path and though it wasn’t terribly busy and all the HGVs gave us a wide berth, when we stopped for coffee and cake at Hesel, I decided to reroute and use farm lanes and back roads. More mileage but a lot more peaceful! More miles indeed as new tarmac and later, some railway work meant a couple of extra detours. On one stretch, very flat and open, we could see a huge squall heading our way. I spotted some trees around a farm a mile or so a head and the race was on… full power, gear 12! We made it and parked the bike under the trees at the farm entrance.

The rain cometh! Fortunately we got to some trees before it got to us.
Back into The Netherlands.

It took about 25 minutes for the rain to pass and once it had (almost), we set off again. I had been asked to give our apartment host a call 10 minutes before arrival. Did so then we encountered some rail workers and yet another closed route so had to double back and go around. We followed the cycle detour signs but they took us back to the rail works, further down and though we could pass through straight ahead, we needed to turn off, which was closed, so another double back and once back at the road I plotted our own route into the village. The place we stayed overnight is really nice, open plan, with the bike inside. There’s a kitchen but we don’t have enough for an evening meal so we need to walk up the road for some breakfast goodies and a meal in a local eatery.

TT25 Day 24 – Bad Nieuweschans to Westerbork. https://www.strava.com/activities/14714268321

Most of the rain fell overnight but we briefly took shelter under some trees about 15 minutes after setting off. We must have dodged the forecast rain after that but couldn’t escape the wind which took some of the pleasure out of the day’s ride. In contrast to sitting beside main roads through much of Germany, we spent virtually all day on minor roads and traffic free paths.

Canal-side path, very exposed – the wind was really bad and at one point I felt like just stopping and throwing a tantrum!
The odd town or woodland path provided a little respite from the wind.
Welcome wind-break.

Ran beside a canal on a narrow path and had to detour slightly as the planned route included some steps. Passed a few closed cafes in the morning but about halfway we stopped in Stadskanaal for some Bitterballen and kroketts. Twice the wind slammed the wedged open door to the place shut and in the end the owner strapped it open. After we got going again there were some more long, exposed stretches which just weren’t fun. Whereas normally we cruise at about 12.5 mph, we were struggling to do 10, even with the usual level of assist. Now and then there was a welcome respite as we passed through some woodland. I think we were both relieved to get to our destination and I really didn’t mean to burst into tears when the receptionist asked if we’d had a good day on the bike. (Just kidding).

TT25 Day 25 – Westerbork to Zwartsluis. https://www.strava.com/activities/14723459276

The forecast was not good for today and it was light rain as I loaded the bike, so I put my WP over trousers on for the first time this trip. More quiet roads through flat farmland and then we turned off onto a woodland path that eventually opened out onto heathland. There were cattle grids at each end but we didn’t spot any cows or horses. Saw a few storks in the fields today and there’s obviously a plentiful supply of frogs as we are often serenaded as we ride alongside a watercourse.

Some of these brick roads can be slick when wet.
Woodland path that delivered us onto some open heathland
Karon making adjustments to her insulin on her pump. It’s a pretty regular occurrence on our rides.

Stopped to snap some little goats and my camera, which has been playing up, decided it had had enough and refused to work. So now it’s just the phone which is also navigating. The rain didn’t last long after we set off but it also felt like it would start any minute. We had a pretty good dry spell and the wind is not the stopper is was yesterday. Had a coffee in Ruinerwold 21 miles in, partly because a cloud burst seemed imminent but that waited until we got going again then started.

Waiting out the heavier rain – we weren’t alone.

We waited the worst of it under a bridge, along with a Dutch lady who also thought it a good idea. We are truly back in the land of low fields and water, and have a day off tomorrow in a hotel we previously stayed at some years ago.

Meppel

TT25 Day 26 – Zwartsluis – rest day.

Spent the day chilling. Liesurely breakfast overlooking the water. I sorted out and rearranged the contents of the trailer bag. Karon stayed in the room most of the day browsing and reading. I was happy not to be riding as several squalls passed through…

Wouldn’t be much fun out in that.
In contrast to the following morning. At least we set off under blue skies and a fairer wind.

TT25 Day 27 – Zwartsluis to Putten. https://www.strava.com/activities/14744644793

There was a strange yellow light streaming through a small gap in the curtains when I woke. Not only that but the sky was blue and clear of clouds as we sat at breakfast. Alas, it was not to last and by the time we took the little ferry across the Zwart Water it was clouding up.

On board the little ferry across the Zwartwater

Still we had a good, dry morning. We had only ridden a dozen miles when we passed through Kampen… too soon for coffee.

Kampen
RideWithGPS… “Turn Left”

At 21 miles we entered the old town of Elburg Vesting which had a street market going on, it being the Pentecost holiday. We spotted a coffee shop that had a few tables outside. That it also had apple cake was a bonus. The sky had been darkening for a while and as we finished our apple cake the first few drops of rain fell. It didn’t get heavy but just kept coming and going.

Nice apple cake.
Elburg

We followed a busy main road for quite a while but at Harderwijk we ended up on a waterside cycle path that tracked the Wolderwijd, a large inlet. Stopped under a footbridge for a while, with several others as the rain got heavier. After 10 or 15 minutes it relented a little so we pushed on. I selected full power and we raced along at max speed of around 15.5mph to minimise the time we spent getting wet. We overshot the hotel entrance and made a U turn to get to the entrance. Our room is on the ground floor and we have a small patio which I can get the bike to in the morning. That should save us lumping all the bags along seemingly endless corridors! Table booked for dinner at 18:30 but we might set off half an our early to navigate said corridors.

The Wolderwijd and more rain far left.
Evening meal in the hotel and another nice outlook.

TT 25 Day 28 – Putten to Noorden. https://www.strava.com/activities/14755535755

Tough day. After a lovely sunset yesterday it was very gloomy this morning. Our room had a patio so I bought the bike round to load up, but it was already raining. The first 6 miles was along dyke top paths, often with water both sides and no shelter from the wind or rain. No photos of that struggle.

Rain gear

Could have stopped at Baarn but we both wanted to just get on and Karon’s blood sugar was ok. Passed through Hilversum too but the rain had eased, then pretty well stopped as we left Baarn.

Nieuwesluis

At Breukelen we passed through a small square and a fast-food place caught my eye. Chips and a beer for me and Bitterballen for Kas but they were mostly potato and very little meat. Removing my waterproof left a puddle on the floor… water from the inside! The Chinese guy tried to short change me by 20€ – cheap food a cheap tactics – my fault for choosing a fast food place. Realising we’d be too early for check in, we moved two doors down into a bar for a complete contrast. We were discussing the navigation numbers and a Dutch lady overheard and gave Karon the URL for the cycle network map. The atmosphere in the bar lifted both our spirits after what was probably the hardest 30 miles of the trip so far.

Bikes at Breukelen Train Station

After Breukelen we had about 10 to do but were out among the polders again, with no shelter or wind-breaks. Had our first moronic close pass too. Someone in an Audi doing at least 70 on a road barely wide enough for us both. Made me jump and swear! Just that one stretch everyone seemed to be in a hurry and it had me constantly checking the mirror so we didn’t get any more unpleasant surprises. Nice hotel by the waterside again. And of course, now we are no longer out in it, the sun is out.

Out on the polders
The restaurant in De Watergeus is in the Michelin Guide. The staff, our room, the evening meal and our breakfast were all excellent.
Karon’s main suited her just fine. Six small dishes with lots of variety.
No clouds and no wind. The weather was finally changing ahead of our last day in the Netherlands.

TT25 Day 29 – Noorden to the Hook of Holland. https://www.strava.com/activities/14766817990

As I unlocked the bike this morning I noticed a broken spoke on the rear wheel. A closer look found another. I wasn’t really surprised, as I thought I felt one go yesterday as we were negotiating some rough ground by some roadworks. Anyway, we loaded up and set off, but I needed to replace them, so stopped when I spotted a bench in the first village we passed through.

I used one of the bags as an improvised axle stand

After that it was quite a pleasant day. I missed a turn on the approaches to Leiden but re-routed to pick up the planned route later, then we ran beside a canal for miles.

‎⁨Aarlanderveen⁩

Karon’s blood sugar was gettylow and there didn’t seem to be any places to stop on our route, so we detoured and found one pretty quickly. We took our time over lunch as check in for the ferry won’t be til later this evening. After that we had to find our way through The Hague. Our final stretch was beside the dunes which delivered us to The Hook. Now sat in the same pub we killed some time in after our Tecklenburg cycle ride.

Vlietland⁩
Behind the dunes and beaches between the Hague and The Hook of Holland
Our lift to the UK.

TT25 Day 30 – Harwich to Great Baddow (Chelmsford). https://www.strava.com/activities/14780631938

43rd wedding anniversary today so we celebrated it with 5:30 reveille followed by a 7:00 am start to a 50+ mile ride. Fortunately the weather was good. At Colchester Karon’s blood sugar dipped, so we detoured to find a cafe that was open.

Had a drink at just after 12 then pressed on for the last 10 miles or so. Surprised to find the garden of our B&B full of screaming pre-schools. They obviously have an arrangement with the nursery in the adjoining property. Had booked an evening meal in a local restaurant to celebrate our 43 years, just a short walk from our digs, so wandered to a nearby pub before finding the restaurant. Ambience was good, great service from the solitary waiter, nice Rioja but the food was nothing special, just ok. Still, it was a pleasant evening.

Layer Breton.
A welcome cold beer and glass of wine before the last 10 miles.

TT25 Day 30 – Great Baddow to Welwyn Garden City. https://www.strava.com/activities/14787217176

Our stay last night was a bit odd… old Georgian house which was unmanned – key code entry to house and room – but shared with a pre-school nursery. That’s a first for Booking.com

Our ‘host’ at the B&B didn’t show to prepare cooked breakfast as she had been sick in the night. I found the breakfast room and helped myself to some coffee, cereal and toast/jam – took Karon a cuppa but as her blood sugar was a bit high, she skipped breakfast. To be fair, we were reimbursed for the lack of a cooked brekky.

A little off-road through Chelmsford Central Park
Sugar stop.

We set off into Chelmsford’s traffic which immediately prompted a diversion to avoid a bloody great queue of cars. Once away from the town the ride was along B roads and quiet lanes through some lovely countryside. That changed when we got to Harlow but I had earmarked a pub in some parkland, on the approaches to the town. A lunch stop which came just at the right time. Carrying on we enjoyed cycle paths through parkland and alongside the River Lee Navigation. The final stretch was along the Cole Green Way repurposed rail route.

The River Lee Navigation
The Cole Green Way
Bike parked up in the events room

The bike is parked in the events room and we are off to the Chieftain, a nearby pub for food and drink. This turned into a bit of a session, as Karon fancied the ‘four-shot sampler’, so we ordered one each… on top of what we’d already had with our food etc. At least we both slept well!

TT25 Day 31 – Welwyn Garden City to Bledlow. https://www.strava.com/activities/14797443896

I think the bike appreciated its overnight parking spot. Originally it was going to be outside, but the hotel manager was concerned about the forecast thunderstorms so offered the events room to keep it dry.

Set off at about 10:15 and once clear of the built up area it was a short run to Hatfield where we picked up the St.Albans Way. Through Hatfield there are multiple road crossings but then it’s a nice run to St Albans.

Back again. We stopped here on the way out – a month before.

Being Saturday morning it was being put to good use by other cyclists, joggers and dog walkers, which is good. Clear of St. Albans we started to hit the hills with a few challenging climbs. Probably easy on a solo but the loaded Pino and trailer take some hauling. Stopped at Chipperfield in a little café so Karon could replenish her sugar levels with Lemon Drizzle and a coffee, while I settled for a Rasberry Smoothie. It was refreshing but I spent the next 10 miles spitting raspberry seeds.

The Chilterns at Chesham

We followed NCR57 into and out of Great Missenden which was tricky to say the least. It’s certainly more suited to mountain bikes and pretty steep. We had to walk part of one descent as I wasn’t confident the brakes would hold the bike. We were now very much into the Chilterns with more climbs and flying descents. I am glad I conserved some battery early on the ride along the old rail route for we definitely needed it all for the second half of the ride, having climbed over 2,000 feet by the time we dropped down into Princes Risborough. We have a nice room in ‘The Peacock’ near Bledlow and I was happy to see the had installed a hat rack over the bed.

Looking back across the Missenden Valley. NCR57 is seriously lacking both sides of Great Missenden and I would not reccomend it to anyone who is not on a full-blown mountain bike.

TT25 Day 32 – Bledlow to Home. https://www.strava.com/activities/14808852086

On my way to retrieve the bike from its overnight spot in a storeroom, I spotted a young (I think) squirrel sat on the fence. He was quite happy to sit and study me while I studied him. Apologies if you were a Miss Squirrel!

Bledlow Ridge from our B&B.

Once we set off, we were on familiar roads, running parallel with the ridge of the Chilterns to our left. Well out from Watlington we passed some Road Closed signs and detour arrows, but as every cyclist knows, 9 times out of 10 you can get through, and so it was, but it was a tight squeeze.

A tight squeeze at Watlington.

No extra miles though. Later, the Chilterns made way for the Thames Valley and we ran beside the Thames into Goring, where we stopped at the Miller of Mansfield pub for lunch after spotting a board announcing their carvery. Unfortunately for us they weren’t doing walk-ins 😞.

Above the Thames Valley with the Wittenham Clumps at right in the distance
One last sugar stop.

Still, we had a drink and break before crossing the Thames and heading for Pangbourne where we left the main road and took to the lanes of the Berkshire Downs, passing through Bradfield with its school for ‘posh’ kids and then Douai Abbey. At Woolhampton we stopped again at the Rowbarge beside the Kennet and Avon and had better success at getting lunch (knowing there was nothing in the fridge/freezer for later).

The Pang Valley before Bradfield.
Karon making friends with a foal.

One final climb and we were on the home stretch. Not as hilly as yesterday but still with a few climbs that made us work… and one push.

Bradfield
Douai Abbey.
A celeratory pint of Good Old Dad (Boy) in the Rowbarge on Father’s day.

1,351.8 miles over 32 days.

We’ll be riding to the ITR in August but by then the Pino will have a stronger back wheel, so hopefully there’ll be no broken spokes on that trip.