{"id":5472,"date":"2026-07-22T13:34:25","date_gmt":"2026-07-22T13:34:25","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.bendingtherules.co.uk\/home\/?page_id=5472"},"modified":"2026-07-22T17:37:06","modified_gmt":"2026-07-22T17:37:06","slug":"orkney","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/www.bendingtherules.co.uk\/home\/orkney\/","title":{"rendered":"Orkney"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

June 2026 \u2013 we head for Scotland to collect BCQs<\/a> on Orkney and Shetland.<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

I had booked the ferries and accommodation well in advance, which is pretty necessary for the summer months. With the Pino and all our luggage crammed into the car, we stopped a couple of times on the way up and stayed in Thurso overnight before our 13:00 ferry from Scrabster to Stromness.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Orkney from the Scrabster – Stromness ferry.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I had booked self-catering in both Kirkwall and Lerwick as it gave us more flexibility in food choices. We also took our slow cooker with us, so I could load it with a stew in the morning and it would be ready when we returned for that evening. There’s a big Tesco in Kirkwall and there are a few bars and restaurants, mostly grouped along or near Albert Street. Our ground-floor, one bedroom flat in Kirkwall was next to a garage forecourt with plenty of off-street parking space. It had a walk-in wet room toilet and shower and a living area with kitchen at one end and sofa in front of a large, wall mounted TV at the other. We would be OK for Netflix!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
21:20 and the sun is still bright. View from the lounge end of our digs in Kirkwall, with plenty of space to park the car. To the left is a filling station forecourt and the road on the right running past the flat leads into the old town centre. That’s Wideford Hill in the background.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
X marks the spot… The six BCQs on Orkney. One was at Kirkwall harbour, very close to our flat.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Our first BCQ was at the Stones of Stenness \u2013 close enough for us to cycle to from Kirkwall. It was overcast with low cloud on the hills, but it stayed dry for us as we took a circular route out to the Stones via Finstown. There were a couple of coaches at the small car park where we locked the bike \u2013 full of Italians I think. Not far from Kirkwall, at Hatston Pier, big cruise liners spend a day or two, disgorging huge numbers of visitors. One day the high street in Kirkwall is almost empty, the next it is packed!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
BCQ 674 \u2013 the Stones of Stenness.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We returned to Kirkwall by way of the Loch of Kirbister, following one of the island’s cycle routes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
On the quieter, back road to pass the Loch of Kirbister. This is looking toward the highest hills on Mainland, Ward Hill at 268m.
The main island roads often have long, straight stretches and traffic can be fast, but there’s often nothing coming the other way, so drivers pull across, fully into the oncoming lane to pass. In all our cycling on this trip, we only had two close passes.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
The Loch of Kirbister with Scapa Flow beyond.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

There was more low cloud for our second ride, and riding from Kirkwall to the planned BCQs and back would have been too far for us, so we drove to St.Mary’s and parked in a lay-by there. It wasn’t too far to the Italian Chapel, across the barrier on Lamb Holm. We had visited the Chapel in 2012 when we took a bus tour of Orkney after our 2012 LEJOG. Once again there were a couple of coach loads, this time Americans and Canadians who were queuing to take a look inside the Chapel. The Pino drew the attention of a few people who came to chat but eventually we rejoined the road and continued island and barrier hopping onto South Ronaldsay and the next BCQ.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Finding somewhere to park that wasn’t too far from, or right next to the BCQ was tricky on Orkney. Many of the main roads have very few lay-bys but car parks can be found beside most places of interest… which is where BCQs often are!
Karon next to the BCQ at the Italian Chapel.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The BCQ on South Ronaldsay was at a viewpoint, though visibility was down to a few hundred yards at best, so there was nothing to see. Once again the Pino came in for some attention \u2013 this time from a chap who had driven past us and pulled off into the lay-by so flag us down for a photo. As it was, we were stopping for the BCQ anyway. We took a slightly different route back across South Ronaldsay, away from the main road, for a feel of the remoteness of the outlying farms.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The following day we took a tour of the Highland Park Distillery, on the outskirts of Kirkwall. In the evening we took a short walk and found ‘The Bothy Bar’ which became our evening hangout for much of the time on Orkney. I took a liking to a local dark ale aptly called ‘Dark Island’, from the Orkney Brewery.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
The Highland Park Distillery, Orkney.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The weather for the following day was promising, so we decided to drive the bike to Stromness, park up on the outskirts and take the ferry to Hoy for the only BCQ not on Mainland.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
A ferry is a must for the Hoy BCQ, either from Houston to Lyness, which is a vehicle ferry, or from Stromness to Moaness, which is a passenger ferry. We chose the latter, though having to help manhandle the heavy Pino down and up ferry steps made the crew grumpy!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Looking back at the small, ferry waiting room, beyond the farm.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The ferry times are limited and we took the 10:00 to Hoy and planned to catch the 16:30, though we could possibly have made the 12:40, but it would have been a rush to get the the BCQ and back, especially as it was blowing a hoolie against us on the outward leg. It was windy enough to blow the bike off the stand. Luckily the damage was superficial and easily fixed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Karon visiting Betty Corrigal’s grave, which is BCQ 676.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
The road back. You can just make out the white Stromness to Scrabster ferry beyond the point of Moaness where the foot passenger ferry docks.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Back at Moaness, we called in to the caf\u00e9 there for a coffee and some cake, then took the lane that runs beside the beach at the Bay of Creekland.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
View from the little caf\u00e9 on Hoy, of Ward Hill, at 1,578 feet, the highest point in Orkney.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We had our camping chairs with us so set them up among the long grasses just behind the beach to watch the birds and soak up some sun.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
The beach at Creekland Bay on Hoy.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Looking west from the beach at Creekland Bay with the island of Graemsay beyond the bay.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Looking East with the beach at Creekland Bay on Hoy, the ferry point just below the cliff headland at left and the slopes of Ward Hill at right.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

It was a pleasant afternoon, waiting for the 16:30 ferry and we had a couple of visitors while we sat there taking in the sights and sounds… a little border collie ‘Mollie’ from the nearby farm came to say hello but ran off fairly quickly when she spotted some fishermen a little further down the coast. Then her big brother, ‘Monty’ turned up and insisted I throw him a kelp stalk, of which there were plenty! I spent the next half hour or so launching various stalks for him to chase and then tear up into small pieces.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Eventually it was time for the ferry and the wind had dropped somewhat, making the crossing back a lot less bumpy that the outward trip.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There was only one remaining BCQ on Mainland to collect \u2013 at Birsay, in the north of the island. We parked at Rendall to cycle along the coast road. At Stenso I spotted a sign for the Broch of Burness, and as we had all day with no imminent threat of rain, we took followed the little lane to the Broch. There was a small fee to gain entry and we had a wander among the numerous stones at the site.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
The Broch of Burness on Orkney.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
The Earl’s Palace at Birsay and our final Orkney BCQ.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
On the route back to the car at Rendall, on the gentle climb to cross the central high land. The long, straight stretch is typical of many of the roads on Orkney. No shelter from wind or rain, should it come.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Back at Kirkwall we still had a few days before our ferry to Shetland. We took the bike out for a short ride around the lanes to the north of the town and drove further afield to explore parts of Mainland we hadn’t yet got to.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
One of the cruise liners moored at Hatston Pier, across the Bay of Kirkwall. The ferry for Lerwick, Shetland leaves the pier too, for an overnight crossing. Wideford Hill in the background.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Scapa beach, just south of Kirkwall.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
The Gloup at Deerness. A collapsed sea cave, about 25 metres deep and 75 long. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
The entrance to the Gloup at Deerness on Orkney, looking south along the rugged coastline. Head east from here and you’ll reach Stravangar in Norway<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Our last evening on Orkney and the weather too a turn for the worse.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The following morning was clear again. Our ferry for Shetland wasn’t until 23:00, and we had to be out of the flat by 10:00, so we had plenty of time to kill. We drove to Stromness for a wander and then to the Ring of Brodgar. Like Stonehenge, access to the stones is no longer permitted \u2013 the footfall of too many visitors has encouraged erosion. We walked a ‘lap’ around the outer ditch and enjoyed the sunshine and views over to Hoy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
The Ring of Brodgar with the hills of Hoy in the background.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Back in Kirkwall, we paid a final visit to the Bothy Bar and around 20:30 headed out to Hatston to wait for our overnight ferry to Shetland.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Onwards, to Shetland.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

June 2026 \u2013 we head for Scotland to collect BCQs on Orkney and Shetland. I had booked the ferries and accommodation well in advance, which is pretty necessary for the summer months. With the Pino and all our luggage crammed into the car, we stopped a couple of times on the way up and stayed … <\/p>\n

Continue reading<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-5472","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry","nodate","item-wrap"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.bendingtherules.co.uk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/5472","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.bendingtherules.co.uk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.bendingtherules.co.uk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.bendingtherules.co.uk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.bendingtherules.co.uk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=5472"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/www.bendingtherules.co.uk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/5472\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5548,"href":"https:\/\/www.bendingtherules.co.uk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/5472\/revisions\/5548"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.bendingtherules.co.uk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=5472"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}